Dave Fletcher: Australian winemaker making a splash in Italy
Dave Fletcher is the owner and winemaker at Fletcher Wines, based in the picturesque, world-class wine region of Langhe, Italy. Over the course of his career, what began as a passion for Nebbiolo has grown into a portfolio of ten wines produced from twelve vineyard sites, including one in Australia.
Dave began studying civil engineering at the University of Adelaide. The science involved was a drawcard, but he found that having physical and outdoor elements in a career felt increasingly important to him. Winemaking turned out to be the perfect fit.
“Having one of the top wine schools in the world at my doorstep made it a very easy decision, so I transferred as soon as I could. I couldn’t imagine doing anything else now.”
With his wines now distributed in 21 countries around the world, Dave says the best thing about his career is “the diversity of the work. One day I could be in the vineyards pruning and the next day in New York pouring wine for a sommelier in a 3-star Michelin restaurant. It’s a wonderful dichotomy of work life and I think very unique to the winemaking industry.”
Dave has fond memories of his time completing a Bachelor of Agricultural Science (Oenology) in Adelaide, which set him on his path: living among the vines in Italy with his family, growing grapes in organic and regenerative vineyards, and crafting small-batch, spontaneous fermentation wines in the old train station of Barbaresco.
Can you tell us about your career highlights to date?
I would say starting my own business and finally working for myself is high on the list, but in reality, the most life-changing highlight was being offered the job as head winemaker at Ceretto Winery in Italy. It’s one of the most famous Italian Wineries in the world, with a long history, very family-focused, and producing very expensive Barolo and Barbaresco wines. They recognised the potential in me, and it led to an incredible 12-year collaboration (to date) that continues today with me as a consultant to their winemaking team. It really shines a light on the high level of winemaking education coming out of Adelaide University, and the Australian industry’s high training standards, for them to have recognised an Aussie to take on that important role, as opposed to a local!
What challenges have you overcome in your career to date?
Well, apart from learning a new language for work, the biggest one was building a winery business on a low budget in one of the most expensive wine regions of the world. I was fortunate to have chosen international business marketing and development as an elective during my degree. It’s helped me build my business, where I’m able to run all facets of it. There are constant cycles in the market and daily problems with grape growing, but having a good grounding has helped maintain stability and continue my business’ growth.
"One day I could be in the vineyards pruning and the next day in New York pouring wine for a sommelier in a 3-star Michelin restaurant. It’s a wonderful dichotomy of work life and I think very unique to the winemaking industry.”
What motivates you and/or who inspires you?
In the beginning it was the Aussie mentality of getting things done; these days it’s drawn from the feedback I get from the top restaurants and wine reviewers around the world. I am also in awe of some of the old Italian wine businesses here in my region that have surpassed three generations and continue to thrive with a family focus to this day. I would love to achieve that goal for my business and family.
What do you remember from your days at the University?
For me, some of the best moments were the late nights on group work projects. Always lots of laughs, and yet when the group focused with all those young bright minds working in unity it was a powerful thing and nothing couldn’t be solved! I still work with similar networks of industry professionals solving different problems these days, but the feeling is the same and reminds me of those days.
I was fortunate to have many great lecturers during my studies but two of the greats were Dr Patrick Island and Dr Peter Dry – both published scholars and the very best Australia had to offer. Dr Dry inspired the love that I have for viticulture today. Having chosen winemaking over viticulture, I really had no interest in that part of the course until I met Dr Dry. His ability to engage interest in plant and soil health was second to none, opening my eyes to the necessity of knowing how to grow grapes well to achieve the highest of qualities in wine. Seems like a simple concept, but at the time I didn’t deem it necessary in my budding winemaking career and yet today I use the principles he taught me to run my 5.5ha of vineyards.
Similarly, Dr Island’s teachings have echoed in my everyday winemaking career, and I still use his laboratory guidebook to this day.
Where do you hope to see yourself in five or 10 years?
Potentially semi-retired and handing over the business to my children, but I think in reality, I will always want to be involved and adding value to it, whether by growing or diversifying.
Do you have any advice to current students aspiring to your career path?
For 2-3 years, work in as many wine regions of the world as you can, to gain inspiration and knowledge to use for your future projects. It will be what defines you as a winemaker beyond the skills you learnt at university. Work in both large commercial wineries and small boutique sized ones. Both will give you a solid information base on how to approach any wine style and price/quality level within varied budgets. I can’t stress that enough. Having a strong knowledge base will set you up for anything and allow you to focus your energy on other things that are important like refining quality or building a business like mine!